So the food for me has been a highlight. I've been out only 4 times. The rest of the meals have been prepared by my family. On sunday I had tlayudas, quesadillas, and some carne asada at the market. I also had watermelon flavored agua, tejate (chocolate & corn drink), and vanilla and berry helado. That night we had tortillas and what is like a whole rotisserie chicken and some frozen (by accident I was told) jello. And I had a large can of sol which apparently is the beer of the area, but most people I see are usually drinking modelo. On monday, I had a giant breakfast. The breakfasts every morning consist of some of the following: eggs and ham, fresh fruit, yogurt, bread, tortillas, very thin oatmeal (more as a drink), hot
chocolate water, fresh orange juice, salsa, coffee. In the afternoon, I had some more chicken in salsa, while others had hamburgers. The dishes are served with some rice and beans (black beans here in the south). On tuesday, I went to finca del abuelo and had tortilla soup and crepa de flor and quesillo (110 pesos). The tortilla soup broth was quite good and the tortillas were thick. The soup is served with condiments: oaxacan queso (which is like non dried parmesan or essentially a more pressed cottage cheese), chiles, and other stuff. The crepas had yellow flowers in them, which I had also had in the quesadilla at the market on sunday. The crepas themselves were pretty good but they were covered in a boatload of cheese and cream. On wednesday, I had chile rellenos: one pork and one cheese. Holy moly! These were fantastic. Stuffed chiles dipped in batter then fried. Was very tasty served with tortillas and avocados. Then wednesday for new years we had a
small sweet tamale (containing raisins and with a small amount of red candy sauce) and a small chicken tamale and a giant tlayuda. We also had a shot of mezcal/tequila and a ponche, a mulled non alcoholic punch. On thursday, we had entomotadas and moladas (tortillas in sauces) and bunelos for a late breakfast. And for a late lunch I had a fresh trout cooked in a garlic sauce with mushrooms (95 pesos). On friday, I had a ham and cheese torta and super gigante tortas which was decent (40 pesos). On saturday, paula and yuan and I went to the 20 of november market, where there is a row of stalls each with raw steak meat thin sliced laying out and a hot charcoal bbq next to it. You order an amount of meat and onions and peppers and they grill it up and you get some tortillas and you sit in a community area and eat it. It's a crazy scene as each merchant is screaming out to attract customers and the grillman is fanning the grill and smoke is filling the
entire room ( which is not very wide - the walkway between stalls is about big enough for 3 people across ). The food was decent. Like carne asada but thinner. The meal was just an awesome experience tho. No forks, no knives. A paper mat as a plate, yet still it was civilized enough. I also found this cool little café that i've been going to, which has internet. I,'ve stopped in there a couple times and have a beer and check email. On saturday, I had a vanilla helado and a michelada, which is brought out as a cold glass with ice and a ton of chile powder in the bottom and rimmed with more chile powder and a bottle of beer. I guessed the idea is to pour the beer in the glass, which ended up holding about a third at a time. It actually was only ok. Not much beer flavor comes through with the ice and chile, probably water would work almost as well (or juice or tea). Today I went to las danzantes to try the huitlacoche, corn fungus. I wanted to
check this out once I read about it in the travel guide. Las danzantes is a fancy restaurant - wine list, silverware presented with meal, multiple courses. It was pretty dead at 4 o clock when I went. I ordered a salad which had jicama, lettuce, seeds, soaked wheat granules, and fried hibiscus flowers and also the raviolis with huitlacoche (250 pesos). The salad was much needed (there is a lot of milk products down here and I was craving something fresh and light. And I know you're not supposed to eat fresh vegetables here, but this is not some street vendor and i've noticed and as many people also say oaxacans won't eat bad food either so they are very careful with the water and contamination.) even tho I wanted the salad it was a bit of a weird mish mash (weird plating as all the ingredients were separated from each other). The raviolis were ok. The huitlacoche didn't have much taste and once again they were drenched in cheese an cream
sauce. I had a glass of the house wine which tasted watered down and had bits of cork or sediment in it. So the meal wasn't that impressive. After that I went over to chocolate mayordomo. Which i've also been to a few times to watch them grind up the chocolate and to people watch. In past times, I ordered a hot chocolate and a cold chocolate (both unfortunately made with a ton of milk - so I had to leave some behind). Today however I picked up some semi bitter chocolate (500 grams for 40 pesos). The sugar is not really ground and so the chocolate is grainy. Even though, it's semi bitter it's still sweet and tastes very much of the cinnamon they put in. I believe the cacao they use is not fermented and so is not quite the same taste as chocolate at home. I'll have to try the other flavors they have next time.
I've had a couple moles (one from class and I guess the moladas were in a mole). My next thing I want to try is more moles. Also, I walk by this hamburger cart on my way home every night and he's doing great business so i'm going to give it a try too.
Oh also they sell a lot of chapulines here. Chapulines are fried grasshoppers. I'd probably try them but one of the guidebooks said that they have been found to contain high concentrations of lead, so i'll have to suck it up and miss out on that one (darn).
Sunday, January 4, 2009
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